Ezmio Education

Gel polish is a special type of nail coating made from acrylic-based ingredients that cure (harden) under UV light. Unlike regular nail polish which air-dries by solvent evaporation, gel polish stays liquid until it’s exposed to UV in a nail lamp. The bottle actually contains a blend of liquid acrylic molecules called monomers and short pre-linked chains called oligomers, plus other additives. On their own, these molecules are runny and sticky. But when you put gel polish under a UV or LED lamp, a chemical reaction called polymerisation kicks in and these small molecules link together into long chains, turning the wet gel into a solid plastic layer.

Essentially, the gel cures into a durable, glossy film that sticks to the nail until you remove it. This transformative curing process is what makes gel manicures so much more long-lasting and tough compared to traditional polish (gel manicures can easily last 2-3 weeks without chipping). In fact, gel nail systems were a breakthrough in nail care because they offered a sturdier, longer-lasting alternative to regular lacquers.

Gel polish = acrylic? Yes - even though we call it “gel”, it’s still part of the acrylic family. All artificial nail enhancements (traditional acrylics, gels, dip powders, etc.) rely on acrylic chemicals and similar polymerisation chemistry. “Acrylic” is a broad term for a family of chemical ingredients (like acrylates and methacrylates) that can form plastics. Gel polishes use certain acrylic monomers that cure with UV light, whereas acrylic powder & liquid systems use a different mix that air-cures.

The key point is that gel polish contains acrylic monomers/oligomers that polymerise into an acrylic (plastic) nail coating. So if someone says “gel isn’t acrylic,” that’s a misconception - it’s just a different application method for acrylic chemistry. The good news is that all cosmetic-grade acrylic ingredients in reputable gel products are tested for safe use on nails. You’ll get salon-quality, resilient results with gel, as long as you use it correctly!

Inside a bottle of gel polish, the monomers and oligomers are mixed with special light-sensitive molecules called photoinitiators. These photoinitiators remain inactive until you expose the gel to UV light. When your nail is under a proper nail lamp, the photoinitiators absorb the UV energy and break apart, releasing energetic fragments called free radicals. Those free radicals attack the monomers and oligomers, causing them to bond together into long polymer chains - this chain reaction is the polymerisation process that hardens the gel. Within seconds, the once-goopy gel becomes a solid plastic network tightly attached to the nail.

Essentially, the UV light is the catalyst that makes all those small molecules link into a continuous film. (If you like analogies - the process is kind of like melting cheese on a pizza: the tiny “grated” particles melt and fuse into one stretchy, solid layer once heat is applied. In gel’s case, UV light is the “heat” that melts all the pieces into one smooth sheet!) The end result after curing is a hard, glossy coating that’s much more resistant to chips and scratches than normal polish, because it’s one interconnected polymer matrix rather than a layer of dried paint.

A proper cure means that the vast majority of the gel’s molecules have polymerised (industry standard is about 80-90% of the monomers/oligomers converting into polymer chains). When you achieve this, the cured gel is at its optimal strength and safety: it’s fully hardened for long wear, and it contains very little uncured material left over. Properly cured gel gives you that strong adhesion and high shine that lasts, and it minimizes the presence of any stray chemicals that could cause problems. On the flip side, improperly cured gel (for example, if you under-cure it or use the wrong lamp) will leave a lot of unreacted monomers trapped inside the coating. These uncured portions can eventually seep out or get exposed, which brings risks: the manicure might feel sticky or dull, it can lift or chip early, and - most importantly - those uncured ingredients are common allergens. Repeated exposure to them can irritate the skin or cause you to become allergic to gel products. So, ensuring a full cure isn’t just about a long-lasting mani, it’s also about protecting your nail health and skin.

How do you achieve a proper cure every time? It comes down to a few critical factors that must work together:

• The Right Lamp (UV output): Always cure your gel using a nail lamp that provides the correct UV wavelength and intensity for that gel’s photoinitiators. Always use the recommended lamp (for Ezmio gels, that’s our LED UV lamp) so that the gel gets the exact light energy it needs. Using a mismatched lamp is a top cause of under-curing.
  
  
• The Right Time: Follow the manufacturer’s curing time guidelines for each coat of gel. Cutting the cure time short - even if the layer feels dry to the touch - means the deeper part of that gel layer may remain uncured. Every gel formula has a minimum cure time to reach that ~90% cure rate. For example, if the instructions say cure 60 seconds, cure it for the full 60 seconds. Don’t do 30 “to be safe on skin” or 10 seconds “because it looks done” - under-cured gel isn’t safe or durable. (On the flip side, over-curing beyond the recommended time generally doesn’t improve anything and can sometimes cause discoloration or brittleness, so stick to the suggested times).
  
  
• The Right Technique: How you apply the gel affects curing too. For gel polish, thin, even coats are essential. If you brush on a coat that’s too thick or lumpy, the UV light may not penetrate all the way through - meaning the bottom part stays semi-raw. It’s always better to do 2-3 thin coats (curing each) than one thick, globby coat.

For builder gels, the approach is different. Builder gels are designed to be applied in slightly thicker layers so you can create strength, structure, or extensions. Because of this, it’s especially important to work with the correct lamp and cure times recommended by the brand. A good builder gel formula will self-level and cure properly even when applied more generously, but if you pile it on too thick at once, the light may still struggle to reach the deepest part. The safest technique is to build in controlled layers, curing each one fully before applying the next.

No matter the type of gel, always gently roll or shake your bottle/jar - this redistributes the photoinitiators and pigment evenly, ensuring every part of the applied layer has the ingredients it needs to cure. With the right lamp, the correct timing, and mindful technique, you’ll achieve a thorough cure and avoid problems.

As mentioned, under-cured gel leaves uncured monomer and oligomer molecules floating around in the manicure. Initially they’re trapped inside the hardened outer shell, but over time they can leach out to the surface or get released at removal. You might notice symptoms of an improper cure if your gel manicure lifts at the edges, chips easily, or loses its shine quickly - these can all be signs that portions of the product never fully polymerised.

More seriously, those uncured ingredients are potent allergens (most gel monomers are known to cause skin sensitisation with enough exposure). Repeatedly touching or inhaling them can lead to allergic reactions - for example, red, itchy cuticles or fingers that develop over time, or even allergic rashes on other areas like your eyelids if you touch your face. Gel allergies have become more common in recent years, and the #1 cause is people inadvertently getting uncured product on their skin (from improper curing or poor application).

Bottom line: if you don’t cure your gel completely, you not only compromise the manicure’s durability, but you also expose yourself to chemical allergens that can cause long-term sensitivity. Always cure each layer thoroughly to avoid these issues.

It absolutely can be, as long as you do it properly and gently. Problems during removal are usually due to impatience or the wrong techniques. Here are some safety tips regarding gel removal:

• Avoid filing dust exposure: If you choose to file or buff off your gel (as opposed to soaking), be aware that the gel dust you create is not just harmless plastic - it can contain tiny uncured particles from the inner part of the gel layer. You do not want to inhale this dust or let it sit on your skin. Inhaling a lot of gel dust over time can irritate your respiratory system and potentially trigger allergies, especially if you’re already sensitive to acrylates. Always wear a dust mask when filing gel, work in a well-ventilated area, and ideally use a dust collector or vacuum to capture particles. Also, after filing, wash your hands (and your tools) to get rid of any residual dust. The goal is to minimize breathing in or touching any gel debris.
  
  
• Be careful with soaking off: The popular method of soaking gel polish off (using acetone or a gel removing liquid solution) avoids dust, but it can expose your skin to uncured gel ingredients if done for prolonged periods. As the solvent breaks down the cured gel, those uncured monomers that were trapped inside can dissolve into the liquid. If your fingertips are soaking in that solution, your skin is effectively bathing in gel residue and acetone. Occasional proper soaks shouldn’t harm most people, but repeated or extended soaks (especially if you have cuts or thin skin) can lead to skin dryness, irritation, or sensitivity over time. To stay safe: only soak for the minimum time needed to soften the gel (typically 5-10 minutes with pure acetone, or as directed with specialized removers like Ezmio’s), and avoid scraping aggressively. If the gel doesn’t come off easily after a soak, it likely needs a couple more minutes - don’t force-peel it, as that will damage your natural nail. It’s also a good idea to hydrate your nails and skin after acetone exposure (use cuticle oil or a nourishing serum) since acetone is very drying.
  
  
• Never rip or peel off gel! This one’s important - we’ve all been tempted to just peel that lifting gel corner, but peeling gel off like a sticker will often take a layer of your natural nail with it. Gel polish forms a strong bond with the top layers of your nail plate. If you prematurely yank it off, you’re essentially pulling up the protective keratin cells of your nail. This leads to weakened, thin, or flaky nails that take months to grow out. Always remove gel with a proper soak or file method, and if you do accidentally peel some, be gentle and go back to safe removal for the rest.
  
  

In summary, gel removal won’t harm your nails if you file a bit, soak as needed, and gently slide the product off - and protect yourself from dust and over-soaking exposure. Using the removal products designed for your system (like our Ezmio Gel Remover, which is formulated to break down our Gel range in under 5 minutes) will make the process easier and safer. Patience is key: take your time and your natural nails will stay healthy.

In most gel systems, curing leaves behind a sticky inhibition layer - a thin film of uncured gel caused by oxygen in the air. This needs to be removed to reveal the true hardened finish underneath. The safest way is with 99% isopropyl alcohol (IPA) on a lint-free wipe. IPA dissolves and lifts the uncured film without affecting the cured gel beneath.

Never use acetone for this step. Acetone is much harsher - it can soften or dull the surface of your manicure, cause it to go sticky, and even weaken the cured gel, making it more likely to chip. IPA is gentle and effective, and it’s also the best choice if you need to clean up any uncured gel that touches your skin during application. A quick IPA wipe removes it safely without damaging your mani.

With Ezmio, you don’t need this step at all. Our One Step Gel is a 3-in-1 formula (base, colour, and top coat in one) that cures to a glossy finish with no inhibition layer. The same goes for our Ezmio Top Coat, which is a no-wipe top coat. That means once your nails come out of the lamp, they’re instantly shiny, sealed, and ready to go - no extra wiping required.

The golden rule is to avoid skin contact with uncured gel as much as possible. We know mistakes happen, especially when you’re painting with your non-dominant hand or reaching side corners. If a bit of gel gets on your cuticle or finger, do not cure it. Wipe it off immediately with a lint-free pad soaked in isopropyl alcohol, then wash the area with soap and water. Uncured gel on the skin is highly likely to cause irritation or allergy if it happens repeatedly, so quick cleanup is important. If you only notice the gel on your skin after you’ve cured it, the risk of allergy is much lower (because once cured, those monomers have mostly reacted). In that case, gently lift or peel off the cured gel from your skin - it should come off fairly easily since gel doesn’t adhere well to live skin. Never leave cured gel stuck on your skin for long periods, though. And absolutely avoid intentionally curing gel on your fingers (like some nail art hacks that involve painting on the skin) - that’s a big no-no, as it can “trap” uncured substances against your skin and heighten the chance of a reaction. In short: if you make a mess, pause and clean it up before putting your hand in the lamp. Your future self (and skin) will thank you!

Other safety tips for using gel:

• Keep it off the skin. We said it already but it bears repeating: uncured gel should stay on the nail only. The skin around your nails (cuticles, sidewalls) will get irritated over time by frequent contact with gel ingredients. Train yourself to paint neatly within the nail area and clean any slips quickly.
  
  
• Follow one system’s instructions (don’t mix and match). Use the gel, base/top (if required), and lamp that are designed to work together as a system. Different brands use different photoinitiators and formulations, so if you cure Brand X’s gel with Brand Y’s lamp, you might not get a complete cure. Similarly, a base or top coat from another line might not bond or polymerise correctly with your color coat, leading to service breakdown. Manufacturers do extensive testing to ensure their products cure properly as a set. By sticking to one system (for example, Ezmio One Step Gel + Ezmio Lamp + Ezmio Remover), you remove the guesswork and ensure compatibility.
  
  
• Use thin, even coats. We mentioned this for curing, but it’s also key for general application. Thin coats not only cure better, they also adhere better and are less likely to peel. If you apply too thick, the gel can shrink or wrinkle as it cures, pulling away from the edges. Multiple thin layers will give you a smoother result.
  
  
• Wipe and wash, then cure. If you accidentally flood your cuticle with gel, don’t just “leave it and cure” - take the time to wipe it off before curing (even if it means redoing that nail). Also, if any uncured gel gets on your tools or table, clean it up - you don’t want to unknowingly lean your hand in it. After you finish your manicure and it’s fully cured, it’s a good idea to wash your hands to remove any traces of uncured product or dust that might be on your skin.
  
  
• Protect your hands when wiping off the inhibition layer. Interestingly, the sticky dispersion layer you wipe off after curing has a high concentration of uncured substances (since it’s literally the uncured residue). Avoid getting that all over your fingers. It’s smart to wear nitrile gloves on the hand that you’re using to hold the alcohol wipe, so that you’re not continually exposing your own skin while cleaning your nails. Nitrile gloves (not latex, as uncured gel can pass through latex) will shield your fingers from the tacky layer. This tip is especially useful if you do nails frequently or are removing lots of inhibition layer (like after top coat on ten nails).
  

By following these practices, you’ll greatly reduce any risk of irritation or allergy and keep your nails in top condition. Gel is very safe when used responsibly - millions of manicures are done each day without issue - the problems only creep in with misuse or lack of knowledge. But now you’re armed with knowledge, so you can enjoy gorgeous gel manis with confidence!

All gel nail products (UV or LED-cured) are formulated to react to UVA light. UVA is the longest wavelength band of ultraviolet light, and it’s actually the gentler part of the UV spectrum (often called the “safer” UV) - unlike UVB or UVC, UVA won’t burn your skin in the short exposures we use for nails. Modern nail lamps labeled as “LED” are indeed emitting UVA, just via LED bulbs. In summary: whether a lamp is a classic fluorescent “UV lamp” or a newer “LED” lamp, the goal is to bombard the gel with UVA rays, which activate the gel’s photoinitiators and cure the product.

UV vs LED vs Ezmio - what’s the difference?
There are a few types of nail lamps on the market, and understanding them helps explain why the Ezmio Lamp is designed the way it is.

• Traditional UV Lamps (fluorescent bulbs): Older technology, slower cure times (often 2 minutes per coat), and bulbs that need regular replacement. They work, but they’re outdated.
  
  
• LED Lamps: The most common today, using diodes that emit focused UVA light. They’re faster (30-60 seconds per coat), longer lasting, and more efficient. Modern LED lamps usually emit at 365 nm and 405 nm - the sweet spots for curing almost all gel formulas.
  
  

The Ezmio Dual Lamp Advantage: Our lamp is a dual-wavelength UV/LED lamp, engineered specifically for our One Step Gel system. It outputs 365 nm and 405 nm UVA light - exactly what’s needed to activate the photoinitiators in our gels. This guarantees:

• A proper cure every time (no sticky or undercured layers).
  
  
• A fast cure in just 60 seconds, perfectly matched to our formula.
  
  
• Confidence that you’re getting the safest, most effective light spectrum for both our entire gel range.

 The lamp’s UV output triggers the photoinitiator chemicals in the gel (as discussed in Module 1). Fluorescent UV lamps emit a broad spectrum of UV wavelengths - for example, roughly 350-380 nm peaks - which can activate a range of photoinitiators (like those with acronyms BME, BP, etc.) used in some gels. LED lamps, by contrast, emit a more concentrated wavelength (commonly 365 nm and/or 405 nm peaks), which is why newer gel formulas use photoinitiators that specifically respond to those wavelengths (e.g., TPO, which absorbs around 380-420 nm). Hybrid lamps cover both ranges to catch all types. The intensity of the light (measured in mW/cm²) also affects curing - stronger intensity can drive the reaction faster or more fully, up to a point. That’s why a good lamp can cure in 30-60 seconds what a weak lamp might only partially cure in the same time. It’s not just about wattage (we’ll cover that next) but the actual UV irradiance and spectrum the lamp produces.

To help you understand how gel lamps and gels work together, here’s a quick reference showing the most common photoinitiators (the light-sensitive ingredients in gel) and the wavelengths of UV light they need to cure:

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Our Ezmio dual lamp is specifically engineered to emit 365 nm and 405 nm UVA light. This means it perfectly matches the absorption ranges of modern initiators like TPO and BAPO.

Wattage is often advertised (like “48W lamp” or “24W lamp”), but don’t be fooled into thinking a higher wattage automatically means a “better” cure. Wattage just measures electrical power draw, not the specific UV output the gel needs. A well-engineered 24W lamp can outperform a cheaply made 54W lamp if its LEDs target the right wavelengths with good intensity.

The critical factors are wavelength compatibility and UV intensity, not just wattage. If a lamp’s light isn’t the correct type for your gel, a 100W lamp wouldn’t cure it either. For example, no matter how high the wattage, an LED-only lamp that peaks at 405 nm will not properly cure a gel that requires significant 365 nm output (unless it has some dual LEDs). Conversely, a moderate watt lamp that outputs exactly 365-405 nm evenly might cure any polish well. When choosing a lamp, look for one from a reputable brand that specifies it’s made for your type of gel.

All Ezmio lamps are engineered to emit the precise UV range our gels require.

Fun fact: A study by lighting experts measured several popular salon lamps and found all of them were well within safe UV limits and effectively cured gels as intended - some had higher wattage, some lower, but all did the job when paired with the right product.

This is one of the most common concerns, and thankfully, extensive research has given us a reassuring answer. Yes, UV nail lamps are considered safe when used as directed. The UVA exposure your hands get from a nail lamp session is extremely low - on the order of a few minutes of natural sunlight in terms of dose.

In fact, scientists found that your hands likely get more UV exposure driving in daylight (through the car window) than they do from regularly curing gel nails. Unlike tanning beds (which use higher-intensity UV and often include UVB), nail lamps primarily emit UVA and in a controlled, brief manner.

According to a 2013 analysis by lighting experts, even the highest-output nail lamps on the market stayed well within safe UVA limits, and the researchers concluded that “UV nail lamps are safe when used as directed”.

No significant increase in skin cancer risk has been demonstrated from normal gel manicure use. Dermatologists have noted that the risk from nail lamps is similar to the risk of sun exposure you might get walking to your car - i.e. very minimal.

Of course, if you are extra cautious or have a history of skin cancer, there are easy ways to add even more protection: you can apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen to your hands (just be sure to wipe your nails clean with remover or alcohol before applying gel, because residue from sunscreen can cause lifting). Or you can purchase a pair of our Manicure Gloves - UV-protective fingerless gloves with just your nails exposed. These steps are optional - the consensus is that it’s not strictly necessary for the general population - but they’re there for peace of mind if you want.

The key is that the UV dose from lamps is so low and brief that it’s not considered a significant hazard. In fact, one myth we’ll bust later is the idea that you must cure gels in sunlight to be “safer” - that would likely expose you to far more UV unpredictably (plus sunlight won’t cure gels properly or evenly). Using a quality lamp for the recommended time is the safest and most effective method.

One thing you might feel when using high-powered LED lamps is a warming sensation or “heat spike” on your nails during curing. This happens because the polymerisation reaction is exothermic (it gives off heat). If a gel is applied too thickly or has certain photoinitiators, the curing can happen very rapidly and build up heat in the nail plate. It can feel like a quick flash of heat or even a bit of a burn if intense.

To avoid heat spikes:

• Apply thinner, controlled layers (especially for builder gels).
  
  
• If you know a certain gel tends to spike, you can do a short flash cure (like 5-10 seconds), then remove your hand for a moment before fully curing - this slows the reaction so heat releases gradually.
  
  
• Use our Ezmio Lamp’s 99s Low Heat Mode. This setting starts the cure at a gentler intensity and gradually increases over 99 seconds, which significantly reduces the chance of feeling a heat spike. It’s especially helpful when working with thicker gels or sensitive nails.
  

Heat spikes, while uncomfortable, generally don’t cause lasting damage to the nail or skin (unless extremely intense), but they are a sign to adjust your technique or make use of the low-heat mode. If you experience one, don’t panic - just pull your hand out for a second (the sensation will immediately cool) and then reinsert to finish curing. It won’t affect the outcome as long as you complete the full cure time.

By understanding your nail lamp and using it correctly, you’ll ensure every layer cures properly - giving you a strong manicure and reducing any risk of irritation. Keep your lamp bulbs/LEDs clean (wipe them occasionally to remove dust), and replace the lamp when it no longer cures effectively (LED lamps last many years, fluorescents you’ll change tubes periodically). A well-maintained lamp and following curing instructions will set you up for gel success every time.

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To really understand how gel works, it helps to know a little bit about how your nails and skin are built.

Your Nails & Skin Work Together

Your nails are part of your integumentary system (the body’s outer layer, which also includes skin and hair). Like hair, nails are mostly made of keratin, a tough protein. Healthy nails grow best when the surrounding skin and cuticles are cared for.

The Nail Unit (The Parts of Your Nail)

Think of your nail as a team - each part has a role:

• Nail Plate: The hard surface you polish.
  
• Nail Bed: The skin underneath the nail plate.
  
• Matrix: The hidden growth zone under the skin at the base of your nail - this is where new nail cells are made.
  
• Cuticle & Eponychium: The protective seal at the base of the nail that keeps bacteria out.
  
• Hyponychium: The seal under the free edge (the tip of your nail).
  

Why this matters: Over-filing, cutting cuticles, or damaging these protective seals can cause lifting, infections, or weak nails.

Skin & Nails - The Connection

Your nail health reflects your overall skin health. Hydration, natural oils, and even medications or hormones can affect how well gels adhere. This is why good prep and gentle care are so important.

When prepping your nails for gel, it’s important to protect the delicate skin around your nail unit. Healthy skin and cuticles act as a natural barrier against bacteria and infection, so prep should be gentle and respectful - never harsh.

Pushing Cuticles

• Use a cuticle pusher at a shallow angle to gently push back the cuticle.
  
• The goal is simply to lift away the thin layer of dead skin that can sit on top of the nail plate, not to dig into living tissue.
  

This step creates a clean surface so gel adheres better, while still protecting the nail matrix (the growth centre).

One of the biggest questions beginners have is: “Should I cut my cuticles?”

Here’s the truth:

• The cuticle is the thin, dead tissue that sits on the nail plate - it can be carefully removed because it prevents gel from bonding properly.
  
• The proximal nail fold (the living skin at the base of your nail) should never be cut. This skin protects the nail matrix where growth happens. Cutting it is painful, unsafe, and can cause infections or tougher regrowth.

Think of it like trimming dry ends from your hair (fine!) vs. chopping into your scalp (never!).

Cutting Cuticles Safely

• If you need to trim, only cut away loose, non-living tissue that has already lifted - never cut into the proximal nail fold (the living skin at the base of your nail).
  
• Cutting into living skin can cause pain, infections, and make the nail more prone to lifting.
  
• Always use clean, sharp cuticle nippers and make small, careful snips - less is more.
  

Why Cutting Too Much Is a Problem

When you cut away too much cuticle, the skin recognises it as trauma. In response, the body will often make the cuticle grow back thicker and tougher, which creates an endless cycle of harder, more stubborn cuticles.

Key Takeaways

• Prep should be about removing what’s necessary - not scrubbing, scraping, or cutting excessively.
  
• Think of your cuticle as a protective seal, not something to get rid of completely.
  
• Gentle prep = healthier nails + longer-lasting gel.